This task includes removing the wheels and brake drums, cleaning out all the old grease from the races, bearings, and spindle, replacing any overworn bearings, regreasing the bearings, races, and spindle and, finally, putting everything back together. While this work is being done, we’ll make sure all the aforementioned components are in good working order – any compromised components must be replaced or, in the case of worn brake drums, resurfaced.

Just like your daily driver, the tires should be rotated on your trailer annually or every 6,000 miles, whichever comes first. While the wheels are off the trailer for bearing repacking, the inner sidewall of the tires should be inspected for checking and wear. Air all tires to the manufacturer’s spec as part of this process.

This one is especially important: Inspect the emergency break-away system, including battery, connections, brake activation, and proper charging of the trailer battery while connected to a tow vehicle.

Most break-away systems use a 12-volt battery located in the trailer to actuate the trailer’s brakes should it ever disconnect from your tow vehicle while you’re underway. Typically, the other electrical components in the trailer such as lights, fans, electric jacks, etc., are also powered by this battery. The battery recharges while your trailer is connected to your tow vehicle. If the battery is inoperable or underpowered due to age, your trailer brakes will fail to activate in the event of an emergency break-away.
Note: just because your battery may show as outputting 12.0 – 12.4 volts, this doesn’t mean that the battery contains sufficient energy (amperage) to properly engage the braking system. This test requires special equipment that measures the amperage being supplied to the braking system when the emergency brake actuator is engaged.

Regardless, most manufacturers recommend that the battery be replaced at least every 3 years, especially if you live in a cold winter region like Michigan. For less than $100, replacing a dysfunctioning trailer battery with a new one can mean the difference between an emergency brake away event being a startling close-call and a potentially serious accident involving your trailer, cargo, and other vehicles and property. When we’re done, you’ll know with certainty that your safety systems will do their jobs in the unlikely event of an emergency.

Lube all zerk joints (usually your rear gate hinges) and other applicable friction points, including your hitch and jack. Everything works better when properly lubed. Squeaks and groans aren’t just annoying, they’re a sign of friction, and friction equals wear.

Do a detailed general walk-around to check for any issues that may not have been noticed while performing the Annual Service. Depending on the type of trailer, this would include door and window seals, vents, fans, latches, floorboards, hull skids and rollers, locking pins, wenches, awnings, compartments, reflectors, diamond plate, etc.  Once everything has been completed, we’ll spend a few minutes with you reviewing all the work that was done and any suggested discretionary repairs or upgrades.  We’ll also be happy to answer any questions related to the safe operation and maintenance of your trailer, including (but not limited to) a refresher on changing a tire if you need it!  We’ll put a bow on the visit by sending you an electronic summary of the work done, parts replaced (if any), and our notes relating to suggested future maintenance and/or upgrades.  We maintain a history of all services performed on every trailer we touch, creating a valuable biography for future service and to present to a buyer in the event of the trailer being sold down the road.